OUR COMMITMENT
At Kaizen Hogs, we offer the healthiest and strongest animals we can, so that you have the best experience with your hognose. We offer information and advice for breeding to care and maintenance. We are committed to providing high-quality services to meet the needs of our customers.
WESTERN HOGNOSE
Heterodon nasicus nasicus, more commonly known as the Western Hognose Snake, get their common name from the upturned scales on the tip of their snout, giving them a pig-like appearance. The scientific name nasicus comes from the Latin word “nasus” meaning nose. Recent years the western hognose has emerged as a popular and varied snake that is increasingly sought after by pet reptile enthusiasts and breeders. This is due to a greater awareness of the snake's husbandry requirements, more widespread availability, and the ongoing introduction of a number of fascinating and distinctive color, pattern and genetic mutations (so many, in fact, that some western hognose enthusiasts think its popularity may eventually rival the corn snake or ball python).
SIZE, CHARACTERISTICS, and AGE
An adult male typically ranges in size from 14 to 22 inches long with a weight of 60 to 120 grams. The appreciably larger female may reach 20 to 33 inches in length and 150 to more than 350 grams in weight (or even larger). The heavy, stout body is covered with keeled scales. Wild western hognose normally has a color of tan, brown, olive or gray with darker blotches or bars that are slightly irregular in shape. Color may express a range of other hues, as well, including green, pink, red, orange and yellow.These snakes are relatively long lived, with an average life span being around 15 to 20 years depending on care and husbandry.
PROPER HOUSING and ENCLOSURES
Front opening enclosures are best for these snakes as they are very timid and scare easily if being handled from above. This, coupled with a small adult size, makes Exo Terra or similar enclosures the go to for most keepers when keeping pets. For breeders or large collections rack system can be ideal. We use and recommend ARS Racks.
A baby western hog-nosed snake may be kept in a relatively small enclosure, such as a small aquarium or a plastic shoebox with adequate ventilation. Baby in rack can be kept in the ARS Mini series. These are large enough to keep them for many months. For adult males an 24x18x12 is sufficient and a 36x18x12 works great for an adult female. Adults in racks we recommend the ARS 55 series.
These snakes are avid burrowers and as such do not need much height to an enclosure, but do require quite a bit of substrate to burrow in. Aspen is a good start as it is very effective at holding a burrow. The brand we use at Kaizen Hogs is Sani Chips course grade. We recommend a substrate level of two to three inches.
We prefer simple enclosures for both babies and adults, with an easily accessible plastic water dish, one that won't flip easy. Two hides (one on the hot and cold side) and adequate substrate. For the hides, we recommend a smooth plastic reptile hide so its easy to clean.
TEMPATURE and HUMIDITY
A thermal gradient should always be provided for this species. The hot side should be around 85° and the cool side around 75°.This is definitely a drier species, with humidity requirements being only 40-50%. This is relatively easy to do, however if you live in a very dry climate an occasional misting on the cool side substrate would be helpful. As long as ventilation is adequate high humidity is rarely a issue. Many people are to blame high humidity for RI infections when normally this results from dirty bedding. Bedding needs to be maintained!
We recommend a heat pad with regulator and thermostat to control the heat.
CLEANING
Hognose are relatively easy to keep as long as proper husbandry is kept. Water bowls should be cleaned daily, and no longer than three days. Harmful bacteria can build up in the water causing infections. Bedding should be replaced every two to three weeks. The hidden danger of spot cleaning bedding only is ammonia and urates can build up causing RI infections. All decor should be clean and sanitized weekly.
FEEDING, VENOM, and ADDITUDES
Hognose snakes will take a wide variety of prey from amphibians to other reptiles and small mammals. Adults should be fed approximately once every ten days. Where as hatchlings and juveniles should be fed every four days. We recommend hairless mice, and what we use here. Frozen/thaw mice are always best to use and can be found from many online suppliers. Smaller is always better for hognose. Never feed a large item to them as this will result in regurgitation. Below is a "good practice" size feeding guide.
​
5G-10G and all Hatchling -Extra Small Pinkies
11G-15G Regular Pinkies
16G-25G Large Pinkies
26G-40G Small or Peach Fuzzy
41G-80G Fuzzy
81G-150G Large Fuzzy or Hoppers
150g-400G Small Mice
400G+ Medium Mice
​
Always buy from a good breeder that has well established hognose for sale. Normally these hognose are three or four months old. If your baby hognose stops eating do not worry. Give him some time and talk to the breeder. Most hognose will start eating normally again without concern, but scenting is a practice that might have to be used. Some hatchlings may refuse the pinky even after repeated attempts. If this happens, try scenting the pinky with a 1:1 mixture of canned tuna or salmon juice and water. You can have the mixture prepared beforehand; it stores well frozen in a closed container.
Hognose use enlarged maxillary fangs to seize and restrain its prey. Care should be taken for the keeper as these snakes are rear-fang venomous. This means the fangs are at the back of the mouth and venom is added by chewing. Hognose rarely bite from aggression, however food motivated bite are common. While the venom is widely considered to not be medically significant to humans, it can cause swelling around the bite wound and other adverse effects if left to chew on the person. Removing the hognose is fairly easy and if done so in a moderate amount of time normally has no effect. The easiest way to remove a hognose that is biting is to push up on the rostral scale. This modified scale is used for digging and will not hurt them when pushed on. Many videos online will show you how this is done, and we recommend watching the video from JMG Reptiles.
Western Hognose snakes are known throughout the hobby for their wide array of defensive behaviors. They are capable of spreading out their ribs similar to the hood of cobras while emitting an intimidating hissing sound. Hognose are known to “play dead” in which they will flip onto their back, open their mouth, and flop their tongues out. This dose not harm them and one should not panic if they do it. Another common behavior is to mock strike, which is when they strike at a predator but with their mouths closed.
Western Hognose snakes can be somewhat easy to sex visually as the males have a longer more slender tail whereas the females have much shorter tails. Another method of probing or popping can be used, however this is dangerous if done incorrectly and should be avoided unless done by a professional.
SEXING HOGNOSE
BREEDING, BRUMATION, and EGGS
Breeding Western Hognose snakes is relatively straightforward. Males are sexually mature at one year old or 75grams. Females are generally considered mature at two years old and ready to breed at 250grams. Breeding occurs right after a winter brumation period in which their temperature is gradually dropped to around 55°F. Make sure to stop feeding about three weeks prior to brumation, as this allows any undigested food to be passed. Brumation should last around eight weeks for males, and ten weeks for females. We use refrigerators to brumate. The snakes are placed in a plastic shoebox sized tote with damp coco fiber, and a small water bowl in it. We place them in the fridges at room temperature, slowly bringing the temperature down over a week till they reach 55°F. Weights are taken before and after brumation, exposure to light during the cooling period should be minimal. Inspect the snakes and their containers weekly to ensure they have clean water and are not experiencing drastic weight loss or excessive lethargy. Do not feed them at all during the brumation period.
After brumation we place the hognose back in the racks at room temp. We wait a few days before turning the heat back on. Once temps are back up to proper levels, start offering the male food once a week and the female twice a week. This builds up their energy reserves and the female will be receptive to breeding shortly after a post-ovulation. This occurs around a month after feeding begins. Pairing at week three is normally advise. It is time to introduce the male to her for a rotational period of two to three days, or until you have visually confirmed the snakes have bred.
Gestation period for western hognose is generally between 28 and 45 days, and it is important to offer the female a meal twice weekly during this time. Egg-laying is preceded by a pre-egg-laying shed that occurs seven to twelve days before oviposition. Provide the female with a nesting box. A plastic container partially filled with damp coco fiber, with a secure lid and a hole cut out of its top. Prior to egg-laying, the female will be restless, wandering around the cage looking for a place to lay her clutch. Eventually, she should lay them in the nesting box. Females will lay anywhere from 8 to 25 eggs which need to be incubated at 78-84°F. Generally the eggs will hatch between 48 and 60 days later. Babies will stay in the egg box till they have their first shed, then be moved to hatchling rack.